Milo the Monkey — Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern (Easy, Beginner-Friendly)

by Latifacha · Crochet Ideas 101

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Meet Milo — a cheeky little amigurumi monkey with a round head, oversized sparkly eyes, and stubby arms made for hugging. He’s one of the easiest characters I’ve designed at Crochet Ideas 101, which makes him a perfect “second amigurumi” once you’ve got the magic ring and a few rounds of single crochet under your belt.

I made the first Milo on a rainy weekend using a worsted-weight cotton I already had in my stash, and what surprised me most was how forgiving the shaping is. There are no fiddly color changes mid-round, no complicated stitches — just a head, a body, ears, arms, a tail, and a sweet two-tone face. If your stitch counts drift by one here and there, Milo still comes out adorable. That’s exactly the kind of pattern I love sharing with beginners.

Below you’ll find everything: the full materials list, US-terminology abbreviations, round-by-round instructions, an assembly guide, my honest tips, and a quick FAQ. Grab your hook and let’s make a monkey.

Materials & Tools You’ll Need

Yarn (worsted / aran weight, approximate amounts)

Warm brown — main color for head, body, ears, arms, and tail (~50 g)
Cream / off-white — face patch, inner ears, and tummy (~15 g)
A small scrap of dark brown or black for embroidering the nose and mouth

Hook

3.0 mm crochet hook (a half-size smaller than the yarn band suggests, so the stitches stay tight and the stuffing doesn’t peek through)

Notions

Two 8 mm safety eyes
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Sharp scissors

Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

Abbreviation	Meaning
`MR`	magic ring
`ch`	chain
`sc`	single crochet
`inc`	increase (2 sc in one stitch)
`dec`	decrease (invisible sc2tog)
`st(s)`	stitch(es)
`sl st`	slip stitch
`Rnd`	round
`( ) x N`	repeat the sequence in brackets N times

Notes & Gauge

Worked in continuous spirals (don’t join rounds unless told to). Move your stitch marker up as you go.
Gauge isn’t critical for amigurumi, but aim for a tight enough fabric that stuffing doesn’t show through. If you can see daylight through your stitches, go down a hook size.
Finished size: approximately 18 cm / 7 inches tall, sitting.
US ↔ UK note: US sc = UK dc. If you’re following UK terms, adjust accordingly.
Skill level: Easy — great for confident beginners.

The Pattern

Head

Work in warm brown.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
Rnds 7–12: sc in each st around (36)
Rnd 13: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)

Eyes: Insert the two 8 mm safety eyes between Rnds 9 and 10, about 7 sts apart, slightly toward the front. The cream face patch (below) sits just beneath them.

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Rnd 16: (sc, dec) x6 (12)

Begin stuffing the head firmly here.

Rnd 17: dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, weave the tail through the final 6 stitches, and pull closed.

Face Patch (the muzzle)

Work in cream. This flat oval gives Milo his sweet two-tone face.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around (18)

Sl st to finish, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Body

Work in warm brown.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Rnds 5–9: sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Rnds 11–12: sc in each st around (18)
Rnd 13: (sc, dec) x6 (12)

Stuff the body firmly.

Rnd 14: sc in each st around (12)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the head.

Ears (make 2)

Start in warm brown, change to cream for the inner ear.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around (12)

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Pinch flat — no stuffing needed. (For a two-tone ear, work Rnds 1–2 in cream, then change to brown for Rnd 3.)

Arms (make 2)

Work in warm brown.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: inc x3, then sc to end (9)
Rnds 3–7: sc in each st around (9)

Lightly stuff just the bottom. Flatten the top and fasten off, leaving a tail.

Legs (make 2)

Work in warm brown.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: inc x3, then sc to end (9)
Rnds 3–6: sc in each st around (9)

Stuff lightly. Flatten and fasten off, leaving a tail.

Tail

Work in warm brown.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnds 2–9: sc in each st around (5)

Do not stuff — leave it bendy. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Curl the end slightly for that classic monkey curve.

Assembly

Attach pieces in this order so everything lines up naturally:

Sew the cream face patch onto the front of the head, centered just below the safety eyes. Stuff it very lightly before closing for a gently rounded muzzle.
Embroider the nose and mouth onto the face patch with your dark scrap yarn — a small horizontal nose with a simple smile curving beneath it.
Sew the head to the body, lining up the front of the face with the front of the body. Pin first, then sew all the way around for a secure neck.
Attach the ears to the sides of the head, roughly level with the eyes, about 9–10 stitches apart.
Attach the arms at the shoulder line, just below the head seam, angled slightly forward so Milo looks ready for a hug.
Attach the legs to the front-bottom of the body so he sits flat.
Sew on the tail at the center-back base of the body and give it a gentle curl.

Give him a squish — your Milo is finished! 🐵

Tips, Substitutions & Variations

Yarn swap: I used worsted cotton, but acrylic works beautifully and is more forgiving for beginners. A plush chenille/velvet yarn (with a 4 mm hook) makes a softer, squishier Milo — just expect your stitch definition to disappear, so count by feel.
No safety eyes on hand? Embroider French-knot eyes with black yarn instead — safer for babies and toddlers.
Skin-tone face: Swap the cream face patch for a soft peach or tan for a different look.
What’s fiddly: Honestly, the only slightly tricky bit is keeping the face patch centered. Pin it in place and step back to eyeball it before you commit to sewing.
Make him a family: Use the same body and head with different ear shapes and colors to spin off a whole troop.

Care Instructions

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap where possible.
For a full wash, place Milo in a mesh laundry bag and use a cold, gentle cycle, then air dry flat. Reshape while damp.
Keep safety eyes well-secured; for gifts to very young children, embroider the face instead.

Terms of Use / Copyright

This pattern is free for personal use. You’re welcome to sell finished items you make from it — a link back to Crochet Ideas 101 is always appreciated. Please do not copy, redistribute, or republish the pattern text or photos as your own. © Latifacha, Crochet Ideas 101.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much yarn do I need to crochet a monkey?

For Milo at roughly 18 cm tall, you’ll use about 50 g of warm brown worsted-weight yarn plus around 15 g of cream for the face, ears, and tummy — well within a single standard skein of each.

Is this monkey pattern good for beginners?

Yes. Milo uses only the magic ring, single crochet, increases, and decreases, with no mid-round color changes. If you’ve already made a simple ball or a beginner amigurumi, you can make Milo.

What size hook should I use for amigurumi?

Use a hook about half a size smaller than your yarn band recommends — here, a 3.0 mm hook with worsted yarn. The tighter gauge keeps the stuffing from showing through the stitches.

Can I make this monkey safe for a baby?

Absolutely. Skip the plastic safety eyes and embroider the eyes and face with yarn instead, and stuff firmly so there are no loose parts.

How long does it take to crochet Milo the Monkey?

Most crocheters finish Milo in about 3–4 hours, including assembly. It’s an easy single-evening or lazy-afternoon project.

Loved making Milo? You might also enjoy Mila the Llama, Daisy the Bunny, and the Baby Cow & Baby Bull patterns — all free, all beginner-friendly, all here at Crochet Ideas 101.

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Pattern, photos, and design by Latifacha · contact@crochetideas101.com